GRENACHE: UNSUNG HERO
By Leslie-Ann Sheppard
To the 'average' person, Grenache is one of the lesser known grape varietals, yet it is one of the most widely planted grape types in the world. Thought to have originated in Spain where it is known as garnacha, it is planted widely in France, Australia and California, and covers land under vine in many other parts of the world.

Grenache is the dominant grape in the Southern Rhone Valley, where it is vinified and bottled under such appellation names as Gigondas, and where it is the key blending grape in such wines as Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Under the provisions of the French government and regulations, up to 13 local grape varietals are allowed to be blended to make Chateauneuf du Pape, but some of the most famous Chateaux use mostly Grenache, including the elusive Chateau Rayas, which makes their rare, and soughtafter Chateauneuf du pape from 100% Grenache.

Outside of the Rhone, Grenache makes more red wine in Spain than any other grape, and accounts for a great deal of bulk red wine in California and Australia. Grenache is relatively low in pigment and therefore when bottled singularly, its wines tend to be light to medium ruby colored. It makes fruity, fleshy wines that tend to age rapidly, which is one of the reasons it is commonly used in blends with Syrah and Mourvedre (hence, the 'GSM' marketing invention, popular in California and Australia). Since it is usually approachable in its youth, the other grapes can provide a little more depth and dimension from the tannins and acidity that they provide.

Grenache is a very hardy vine. It can handle extremely poor soil, very high temperatures and little rain. It even thrives in the sun-baked region of Sardinia, one of Italy's islands. Some of the vineyards of Chateauneuf du Pape are in fact made up of miniature boulders- red rocks that are seemingly incapable of supporting any vegetation. The Grenache vine burrows down deep to collect its nutrients, which accounts for the complexities of the best bottlings. Since the vines produce ample fruit clusters, it is up to the farmer and winemaker whether to aggressively prune and vinify only small yields, as in the best quality wines, or whether to use every last grape grown on the vines, in the case of the bulk producers.

Since Grenache can stand high heat, its grapes can bask in the sun, ripen and hold a high sugar content. This often translates into high alcohol wines, as the higher the sugar content, the more room for alcohol conversion.

What does Grenache taste like? The wines should, indeed, reflect the conditions under which the grapes were grown. When grown under tough conditions or from old vines the wines can be rich and complex, with flavors of roasted nuts, blackberries, spices and above all earthiness. When grown without expert attention, the wine can be thin, light, but generally easy-going. I've also experienced some very concentrated versions (mostly Spanish) that are darker violet and have loads of sweet, jammy fruit.

Grenache is a versatile accompaniment to food, suitable for cheeses like Manchego, cheddar and firm cheeses like Piave Vecchio. It sings with meaty dishes and with sauces like barbeque and herb-driven dishes.

Leslie-Ann Sheppard is the owner of The Cellar, a wine and cheese shop on Surfside Road, now open for its fourth season. I