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The Arts December 26, 2007
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FAVORITE WINES OF 2007, AND THE ULTIMATE CHEESE PLATTER
By Leslie-Ann Sheppard
At this time of year, many columnists put together 'best of' lists, recapping highlights of any particular category, whether books, movies, personalities, chefs, etc. always get a kick out of these, so decided this year to compile my own 'best of' list and, of course, feature wine.

Adaunting task! I figure I must taste over 100,000 wines each year for buying purposes. This past year I bought wine for customers who shop at my store, The Cellar. This is a 'broad' buying experience, because I sell wines from all over the world, and in price ranges from $5 to several hundred dollars per bottle. It's challenging to try to find wines for literally everyone, but it's a process I truly enjoy. Rather than a 'hit or miss' policy of selling wine that's dirt cheap but hardly drinkable, I taste the wine and make sure it's in balance and pleasant; that it will meet or exceed expectation for its price tag. Again, a daunting task, given that each person's palate is different. But an exciting one!

Here, I've put together some of my favorites for different price categories. Some of the wines have been my favorites vintage after vintage. Others may be benefiting from good conditions of the vintage.

Under $20

White: Cave de Turckheim Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France. This is a crisp, dry, interesting, refreshing, perfect 'everyday' white. I poured this at many functions this year, and always, at least a dozen people asked me about the wine. Red: Zaccagnini Montepulciano Riserva, Abruzzo, Italy. Customers call this 'the twig wine' for its adorable packaging, complete with a tiny piece of grape vine attached to the collar. Inside the bottle is delicious, ripe red fruits, medium weight, and nice linger. A very versatile favorite.

Under $35

White: Mulderbosch Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa. I've been a big fan of all of the Mulderbosch wines, but the Chardonnay really hits all the right spots for me. Red: Chateau Saint Cosme \Gigondas, Rhone Valley, France. This organically grown and produced Gigondas is made by the oldest Chateau in the appellation. 100% Grenache is full bodied, silky, and hauntingly complex. I worked with the 2001 vintage this year until it sold out. Good thing I stashed a few bottles for personal enjoyment later on...

Under $50

White: Rudd Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, California. This wine turned my head at the Nantucket Wine Festival Gala in May, and was my top recommendation for an incredible Sauvignon Blanc this year. Crisp minerality coupled with lemon custard, with notes of apple- delicious. Red: Mueller Old Vine Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, California. This is a small producer who works with very old, gnarled, stumpy zinfandel vines and lets the grapes express themselves perfectly, meaning the winemaking is minimalist. Concentrated blackberry flavors, focused, sexy, and supple. Perfect to take the chill off a cold night.

Under $75

White: Domaine Fichet Meursault, Burgundy, France. I've been following Jean-Philippe Fichet and his wines for years now, and consistently find them to be some of the top White Burgundy for their price category. The nose suggests pineapples and cream, and the palate provides an experience that is both lengthy and sublime. Red: Moccagatta Barbaresco 'Bric Balin,' Piedmont, Italy. Textbook Barbaresco, this bottling of the Nebbiolo grape is full bodied, with loads of truffle, cocoa, and earth tones. I presented this wine at a Golf Club dinner and was swarmed with inquiries about and orders for the wine. It shined with rack of lamb.

Under $100

White: Domaine Maltroye Chassagne- Montrachet, 1er Cru Maltroye, Burgundy, France. An amazing bottle in pretty much any vintage, this one is from the phenomenal 2005 vintage. Very lean upon opening the bottle, over the time it takes to finish, it opens up and displays incredible complexity. Red: Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello de Montalcino 'Rennina,' Tuscany, Italy. Although some folks may miss the fine print on the bottle, this winery is the offspring of the famous Gaja Winery in Piedmont. This Brunello is seductive, supple, and intriguing.

Under $200

Champagne: Dom Perignon. Aclassic in any vintage. White: Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, Domaine Tollot-Beaut, Burgundy, France. From a vineyard so tiny that production and distribution are a drop in the bucket of world wine. When you can get your hands on some, grab it if you are able! Red: Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Damoy, Burgundy, France. This tiny winemaker has some of the best vineyard holdings in Burgundy, with at least three different Grand Cru bottlings. The Chapelle- Chambertin is from the 1999 vintage, the great last vintage of a century. The years have been good to this wine, and it will continue to provide pleasure for many years.

This was a difficult task, and even as I am writing, I feel I can go on and on about my favorites in various categories - 'American' wine, for example, or grape varietal - but, that would be a much longer column. The only other thing I want to go out of 2007 with is a list of essential cheeses for the ultimate cheese platter to accompany all of these outstanding wines.

Favorite Blue

Gorgonzola Dolce, from Lombardy, Italy. This cheese is a combination of gooey creaminess, and slight saltiness that is spreadable and decadent. Favorite Cheddar: the folks at Mainland Dairy in New Zealand milk their happy kiwi cows and then age the cheddar for at least two years before release. Wonderful texture and flavor. Favorite Sheep Milk Cheese: Manchego. There is quite a variance between wheels from one dairy to the next. Look for artisanal wheels from small farms, if possible. Favorite Goats Milk Cheese: Humboldt Fog, from Cypress Grove Dairy in Humboldt County, California. The layer of ash in the center reminds me of another favorite cheese - Morbier, from France - but this one is snowy on the inside, creamy on the inside, and quite unique. Favorite stinky cheese: it's a toss-up between Italy's Taleggio and France's Eppoisses. Both are very creamy, in fact, runny when ripe and warm.

I wish everyone a happy, healthy end to 2007, and a new

year filled with exciting new tastes! Cheers! I

Leslie-Ann Sheppard is the owner of The Cellar, a wine and cheese shop on Surfside Road, open through New Year's Eve!