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DISH with Maribeth Maloney
AG: Sure. MM: What's the one question you've always wished someone would ask you, but never has? AG: If I knew the answer to that, I wouldn't agree to be interviewed. MM: Touché. MM: What's the one question you'd never answer? AG: What was it really like to work in all those kitchens. MM: Why didn't I ask that? MM: You grew up with a mother who's a celebrated cookbook editor and a father whose hobby was Chinese cooking. Does that make you the result of environmental conditioning or genetic engineering? AG: I'm going to call myself an heirloom-hybrid. MM: Speaking of genetics, you're the mom of a baby girl. Would you encourage her to follow your lead or tell her to run screaming in the other direction? AG: Let me put it to you this way - she's been given a pocket-protector, a computer and a tiny desk as her first play toys; there's not a whisk in sight. MM: Got it. Run screaming. MM:You're a Barnard College graduate, began your culinary training at An American Place in Manhattan, moved to France to attend La Varenne Culinary School in Burgundy, worked your way up the ranks at Michelin three-star Guy Savoy in Paris, were promoted to sous chef at La Butte Chaillot (another Savoy restaurant), returned to New York City and worked at Daniel Boulud's revered restaurant Daniel where you rose to fish/sous chef, moved to L.A. to work at Joachim Splichal's famed Patina for two years and were sent back to Manhattan by Splichal to open Nick & Stef's Steakhouse …all of that before becoming Executive Chef at Butter. Now I need a nap. How do you feel? AG: Pensive, and excited to be in a position where I can teach other people about my experiences. I'm also considerably calmer about the occasionally overcooked piece of halibut. MM: You've earned the right to burn the damned halibut. Which leads me to ask, if your house was on fire, what would you grab first? Something without a pulse, please. AG: My photo album, my passport and The Gourmet Cooking School Cookbook, 1964 edition. MM: Butter is a "see and be seen" place; the first time I went, I bumped into my music mogul friend who had an über-model attached to him - standard clientele. Do you enjoy the hype or does it ever get in the way of the food? AG: The hype brings people in the door, but when the hype cools off, it has to be about something else - that's where the food comes in. Hype is like a pair of fishnet stockings; if you're careful, you might get four or five wears. Good food is that indispensable little black dress; it never goes out of style. MM: How do you define romance? AG: A freshly-baked bread, a very short espresso and a glass of vintage champagne on the terrace. MM: If you could wear anything other than chefs' whites in the kitchen, what would it be? AG: A cashmere pantsuit. MM: I've noted the absence of fishnets. MM: You describe your cooking style as "eclectic American." What two words describe you? AG: Whimsical and temperamental; I can laugh at myself when I get mad. MM: What did you forget to do yesterday? AG: I don't remember, but I haven't felt the repercussions yet. MM: Many chefs, yourself included, who've appeared on "Iron Chef America" have said that their ideal judge would be Bill Clinton. Care to elaborate? AG: 1) He loves to eat. 2) He's smart. 3) He's diplomatic, but he wouldn't let diplomacy stand in the way of his honest feelings. MM: If you ever get your wish, what dishes will be on the essential Bill menu? AR: A greenmarket pizza and deep-fried guinea hen with spicy mustard sauce. MM: If you could relive the best day in your life, which would it be? AG: It's a tie: The first day I filleted a fish without mutilating it and the day my daughter was born. But I think my daughter wins. MM: If you could delete the worst day in your life, which would it be? AG: Probably the day I fell headfirst down a flight of stairs holding a 50 pound box of cod. I thought I was dead. MM: Do you think being an executive chef is harder for a woman to achieve than for a man? AG: Of course. MM: Well said. MM: Speaking of men, you met your husband when he was a student in a fish class you teach at NYC's Institute of Culinary Education. Filleting aside, what else would he say he's learned from you? AG: In all fairness, we've taught each other a lot about how important patience is, in any context. And if you want a good marriage - when it's your turn to make breakfast - you have to make sure the eggs and toast are on the table at the same time. MM: And then there's the bacon. MM: What do you consider to be the ultimate luxury? AG: Having a chauffeur. The car doesn't have to be fancy. MM: If/when you write a cookbook, what will the dedication say? AG: "Sorry Mom, I had to do it." MM: You've said your last meal would include a sloppy, grilled three-cheese sandwich, your mother's marinara sauce with pasta, a 30-pound Alaskan King Crab with a pound of butter and 12-layer dark chocolate cake, among other courses! Makes me wonder - what would your first meal after reincarnation be? AG: A watercress salad. MM: I have a fixation with tattoos: choosing a keeper for bodily publication seems daunting. Do you have any? Tattoos, that is. AG: No. MM: If you got one, what would it be? AG: That's a hard question; maybe that's why I don't have one. Wait - it would be a full-blown drawing of a '58 Caddy. MM: That's a keeper. MM: I've heard you love Nantucket. Aside from cooking at The White Elephant, what will you make time to do this weekend? AG: I will make time to walk to the end of Madaket. I'll make sure to go to Straight Wharf for a cocktail, and I'll get to The Hub early for my $10 New York Times. MM: Hmmm. You know the island. AG: It's tied with Montauk for my favorite place on earth. MM: You've said that in your alternate dream career, you'd be a marine biologist. Any chance you're plotting to cancel your flight home to pursue the dream? AG: Absolutely. MM: Looking for any moonlighting gigs as a chef? I'll bet a line's forming now. AG: (Laughing) I hope you're right! MM: I'm sure I am! I "RAW" SCALLOPS WITH FRESH LIME AND GINGER One of the fabulous recipes Chef Guarnaschelli will be preparing at The White Elephant.• 12 Nantucket Bay Scallops, shelled and cleaned • 1 cup vegetable oil • 1 small knob fresh ginger, peeled • Kosher salt, to taste • Freshly-ground white pepper, to taste • 1 Lime, lightly zested and juiced • Juice from 1 lemon • 1 tablespoon hazelnut oil (or extra-virgin olive oil) • Sea salt, to taste (such as Maldon or Fleur de Sel) Arrange three of the scallops in each scallop shell; set aside. Pour vegetable oil into a small pot and bring to about 300 degrees over low heat. Peel the knob of ginger into thin strips with a vegetable peeler or Japanese mandolin. When the oil gets hot, add the ginger strips and cook, stirring from time to time, until they are light brown and slightly crispy. Turn them out onto a paper towel to drain; season with salt and pepper and set aside. In a small bowl, blend the lime and lemon juices. Sprinkle some of the lime zest directly onto the scallops and spoon some of the citrus juice on top of each. Drizzle with hazelnut (or olive) oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Top with the crispy ginger and serve immediately. Serves 4. |
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