Your Wine
WINE FOR SCALLOPS
By Leslie-Ann Sheppard
Though we don't experience the brilliant colors of autumn that can be seen elsewhere in New England, here on Nantucket there are certain unmistakable signs of fall. Our color palette changes its hue from wonderfully diverse greens to the subtle autumn tones of burnt sienna, muted red, and copper: the harvest tones. And the much anticipated scalloping season has begun.

Going scalloping can be a very enjoyable adventure. Whether raking or diving for them, it is a great pleasure to get out there, into the water, to seek out the heavenly treasures we are so lucky to have at the tips of our toes. The only other thing you need to remember is to choose a wine that will make it a memorable meal.

Bay scallops are delicate, and therefore are best enjoyed with minimal intervention and preparation. Once shucked, it's best to keep the scallops in their natural juices - don't rinse them until just before cooking. Now it's time to uncork the wine.

Because scallops are naturally delicious, I recommend thinking of the wine as your most important condiment. You won't want a wine too 'big' to overpower the tender flavors. White wine is best, although for those who only drink red wine, consider one that is very light in body, with good acidity and soft tannins. You might still be able to taste the scallops!

There are plentiful options for choosing a Great White. Wines with natural high acidity, like Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, work well because it's almost like adding a squeeze of lemon to the dish. Richer wines can also work well, like full-bodied Chardonnay, because they can add flavors like butter, vanilla and more tropical fruits. Even when I go for richer wines, I still prefer those with slightly high acidity because they provide a contrast and seem to elevate all of the flavors of the meal.

You'll probably choose a wine primarily to drink; however, wine can - and should - play an important role in the cooking process. Deglazing a pan is a simple way to make a little sauce for your meal. After you've seared the scallops in a hot pan and removed them when cooked, simply pour the wine into the pan 'drippings.' With the heat still high, allow the wine to reduce and adhere to all the scallop flavors left behind. You may want to add a pat of butter to emulsify the sauce. That's it; it's done. Drizzle the glaze on top of the cooked scallops, and you've got perfection.

If the thought of adding 'zest' is appealing, you may want to choose a wonderful Sauvignon Blanc. Sancerre is a very famous appellation in France's Loire Valley, and the wines produced there are some of the best in the world. Pouilly Fume is the appellation right next door to Sancerre, and it just takes a little experimentation to

find your favorite Sauvignon

Blanc from either area. The

age of the vines is part of what makes these wines different from Sauvignon Blanc from California, New Zealand, or any other region. The Loire Valley has been home to Sauvignon Blanc vines for centuries, so the roots carry generations of minerality embedded in the earth. Some of the wines even have a slightly salty edge - right at home with scallops. Riesling is another wonderful choice for scallops. They can range from bone-dry to quite sweet; I would choose one that has a touch of sweetness, but that has a deeper, more complex profile. Great Rieslings are earthy and minerally as well, and it's like magic when you pair with fresh seafood.

If the idea of a fatter, richer wine appeals, you can try any number of styles of Chardonnay, from the most mineral, steely and oak-free Chablis, to the 'more indulgent' styles of California and Australia. My choice would be to go straight to the top, and to select a fabulous white Burgundy. You get richness and complexity, but also purity of fruit balanced with acidity and minerality not always found in New World Chardonnay.

White Burgundy wines are almost always aged in oak barrels, but there is wider use of older, 'seasoned' casks, which allow the wine to develop and breathe without imparting too much flavor.

The Cote d'Or is the specific zone within Burgundy that is home to some of the most famous appellations in Burgundy. Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and Chassagne-Montrachet are three of the villages that are home to some of the best vineyards. There are many more - though less 'flashy' perhaps - appellations that deliver wonderful wine at various price points. But if you're 'going for it,' here are some favorite producers to seek out: Domaines Maltroye, LeFlaive, Fichet, Ramonet, and Darviot-Perrin. Prices will range from the mid 30s for village level, negociant produced wines to quite pricey for estate-bottled grand crus.

Of course, there are many more excellent wines that pair well with scallops. Within France, Alsatian wines can bring out some sweet notes, while wines from the Mediterranean regions lend a beautiful combination of herbaceous notes, stone fruits and minerals.

Cheers to a successful scallop harvest!

Leslie-Ann Sheppard is the owner of The Cellar, a wine and cheese shop on Surfside Road. She would be happy to help you select the perfect wine for your Nantucket Bay Scallops.