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Pet Tracks
THE FORMITABLE FLEA
Jan Jaeger
We're hearing a lot of the "F" word at the shop these days. I'm not talking about the ubiquitous expletive deleted, but rather the "F" word that makes both man and beast cringe. I'm talking about fleas. People think that flea problems are strictly a summer issue, but, in actuality, this time of the year, after the high heat and humidity of summer, both the number of complaints and the purchase of flea and tick products increase.
Fleas are an annoying and unhealthy nuisance to be sure, with bites that are itchy at the very least and that can cause an allergic reaction called flea bite dermatitis in sensitive pets. Not only that, your pet can swallow fleas when self-grooming, and if a flea is bearing tapeworm eggs, then you have tapeworms to deal with as well.
There are a number of products to help you combat a bout with fleas, but by understanding the flea life cycle and behavior, you can be better educated about the precautions to take or treatment plans you need to begin to overcome your problems.
Fleas are hard-bodied, reddish brown and wingless. Their three pairs of legs enable prodigious jumps, with flattened sides to facilitate moving through the host's hair, fur or feathers. There are four stages to the flea life cycle: egg (representing 50 percent of the typical flea population), larvae (35 percent), pupae or cocoon (10 percent) and adult (5 percent). From egg to adult can take as little as two weeks or as long as eight months, depending on conditions. A female flea, rarely living more than a year, can produce 15-20 eggs a day, up to a whopping 600 eggs during her busy lifetime.
Eggs are usually laid on a host, but can easily fall off into the environment, especially in places where the host rests or sleeps, such as on rugs or carpets, bedding, upholstered furniture or outside in sand or grass. Larvae hatch from the eggs, undergoing approximately 3 molts, becoming larger with each shedding. In the third state, the larva makes a cocoon, where the adult flea develops. In this pupal stage, the flea can remain dormant for months, protected by its cocoon from insecticides, which is why an unoccupied house can suddenly bloom with fleas when new hosts are introduced.
Adult fleas hatch with proper stimulation, including vibration, heat, motion or increased carbon dioxide levels. The adult can emerge from the cocoon in less than a second to find its host, biting to feed on the blood that is essential to its reproductive process. An adult cannot survive or lay eggs without a blood meal, but may live 2 months to a year without feeding.
The many single purpose and broad-spectrum pesticides available veterinarian prescribed, over-thecounter or online have made considerable inroads in controlling flea-associated medical issues. However, most people don't notice their pet has fleas until the problem is out of control.
What makes sense is to follow a realistic plan that works in terms of your time, energy and budget that is consistent with your concerns about the safety of your pet and your environment. Critical to successful flea control is treating your pets and the premises at the same time and having a consistent follow up; mark your calendar to be sure.
Your program might begin with a flea and tick shampoo, which will get rid of the adult fleas. To maintain a residual effect, allow about 36 hours after a bath to restore body oils, then treat the animal with either a topical or systemic type of flea control. Topical products include collars, sprays, mousse and powders, applied on the surface. Systemic treatments are absorbed or consumed by the pet and affect the fleas that ingest the host blood. Drop-on systemic pesticides are effective in treating the whole animal and can be used on both dogs and cats.
Premise sprays and foggers treat the home environment. In conjunction with treating your pets, clean the house from top to bottom with a thorough vacuuming. Place disposable vacuum bags in a plastic bag, throw it away outside, even if the bag is not full, so fleas in the bag can't recontaminate the inside the house. You can use snips of a flea and tick collar in your vacuum bag for added effectiveness. Wash all bedding, including pet beds. Frequently groom your pet with a fine-toothed flea comb, dipping the comb into a large glass of water to drown any snagged fleas.
After all this, you might still continue to find adult fleas as the resident pupae hatch. Getting control of a flea outbreak may require three, four or even more repetitions of treatment. After once or twice, it is easy to get discouraged and want to try every treatment available on your pet to get rid of those pesky fleas. Resist this temptation, because in this case, more is not better. Talk to your veterinarian or pet professional about product interaction and the advisability of overlapping products. The key is to be persistent and balanced in your pest control management for a
scratch-free and comfortable pet. I
Jan Jaeger is owner of Geronimo's, Ltd., Nantucket's pet supply and gift shop, and is a member of DWAA and CWA (Dog and Cat Writer's Associations of America). Her pets at home are Junior, a Chesapeake Bay Retriever and three cats. At the shop are the cats, Messrs. Fish and Chips, Flower bunny, Willie guinea pig and two budgies. Send e-mail to jan@geronimos.com.
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