WINNING WHITE WINES FOR COCKTAIL PARTIES
With summer now in full swing, the most compelling question on many people's minds is… "Can you suggest a great summer 'cocktail' wine?"

I define a cocktail wine as one which does exceptionally well with a large audience - one with crowd appeal. A good cocktail wine is lively and fresh; it is relatively easy-going; it does not need food to be appreciated. Guests at a cocktail party will ideally taste the wine, have a pleasant reaction, and throughout the party, casually comment to other party-goers, "Isn't this wine delicious?"

When I envision this scenario, I start with the wines I rule out of the great cocktail wine category. For as many people who love chardonnay, there are just as many who are very particular about the kind of chardonnay that is pleasing to them. Some love the big, buttery, oak driven wines most often associated with California. Others would rather chew on a 2'x4' than have so much pronounced oak in their wines. Because the style of chardonnay is often disagreed upon (and there is even an 'anti-chardonnay' movement, as evidenced by the repeated request by customers for an 'ABC wine', which stands for 'Anything But Chardonnay'), I look to other grapes for inspiration for summer cocktail parties.

Pinot Grigio is another white that I usually avoid recommending for cocktail parties. While it can be a refreshing wine, I again picture the cocktail party-goer looking for something delicious and fresh. Too often Pinot Grigio served at cocktail parties is the mass-produced kind, which can be thirst quenching if ice cold, but other than that holds little interest for those who appreciate wine. So I move past Pinot Grigio.

Where do we go from there? Sauvignon Blanc is one of my favorites, but for some, the concern is that they can be too high in acidity, and do better with food; this is a legitimate point. Riesling is another wine I really like, but not everyone shares this view. And while I feel it's important to educate people on the joys of Riesling, a cocktail party may not be the time or place to do so.

So I look to slightly more unusual white wines. Grüner Veltliner, for instance, the important Austrian grape varietal, is a great choice for cocktail parties because it is light bodied, crisp, but not very high in natural acidity. It is chic. It also pairs well with foods from shrimp cocktail to prosciutto-wrapped asparagus tips.

Pinot Blanc is another star for cocktail parties. The style of Pinot Blanc can vary considerably from producer and origin, so look for wines from Alsace, France, or try one from Oregon or Italy, where it will be labeled 'Pinot Bianco.'

Speaking of Italy, there are many, many great whites that are perfect for cocktailing. I recently sampled a Grillo, a white indigenous to Sicily. Spirited minerality, fresh fruit and crisp finish turned all my tasters' faces into satisfied grins. Arneis and Erbaluce are two other great Italian whites that, although less well-known than others, are sure to enlighten.

Another important criteria for the great cocktail wine is that it doesn't cost a lot. When you're hosting a party, wine is usually just one of the many expenses involved, so it helps to find wine under $20 a bottle, and finding great wine for around $10 a bottle doesn't hurt either. Try Chenin Blanc from South Africa, or whites from France's south, like Picpoul. These wines have all the crowd-pleasing qualities, and are interesting, too.

It's important when hosting a party to know what you're serving. I suggest trying the wines you're considering first, so you can be comfortable answering guests' questions about the delicious, interesting wine you've selected. Seek help from those who have answers, whether an on-line wine critic, friend with wine knowledge, or wine merchant. It may be the difference between a cocktail party and a memorable, hit-ofthe

summer event. I

Leslie-Ann Sheppard is the proprietor of The Cellar, a creative wine and cheese shop on Surfside Road.