THE COCKTAIL PARTY, REDEFINED
By Leslie-Ann Sheppard
Though some cocktails - like the martini - are classic, many people these days are passing on liquor and turning to wine. In many social circles, wine is the preferred 'cocktail' for every occasion, from picnicking to dinner to parties. The cocktail party has been replaced with 'wine and cheese' gatherings. Wine and cheese are the 'couple always welcome' at parties. But, why wine and why cheese?

Many Americans now realize the complexities of wine; that so many different flavors can be tasted in one glass. Different fruit flavors, earth tones of minerals, leaves or grass, smooth or rough textures and varied acidity are all possible perceptions when one chooses wine. And knowing that the next glass from the next bottle can and probably will be completely different is something that certainly distinguishes wine from liquor.

Cheese has never been out of fashion, but now it is often featured as the only snack at cocktail parties, and with good reason. Cheese is the perfect accompaniment to wine. The enzymes and proteins in cheese complement the acids and tannins in wine. Each sip brings the next nibble to new heights, and vice versa. But not every wine works with every cheese. Here are some guidelines for pairing the two for maximum enjoyment.

+ Try cheeses with regional wines. In France, different wine regions also have specific cheeses made in those regions. One of the most fabulous pairings is Loire Valley wines and cheeses. Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc are king in this region, and the villages are famous for their little goat cheeses. Whether the chevre is young, soft and fresh, or more firm and sharp with age, this pairing is magnificent. The acidity in Sauvignon Blanc elevates the cheese, and the cheese smooths out the edges of the wine. Even if you're not keeping to French products, the magic of this pairing is consistent whether the wine is from New Zealand and the cheese is from Vermont.

+ Other winning combinations for white wines include Gewurtztraminer paired with cheese with herbal flavors, or with cheddar. Cheddar also works well with many Chardonnay wines.

+ If you are serving red wine, there are many, many cheeses that will enhance the tasting experience. Try

a strong, slightly runny cheese with Pinot Noir. The fruit in the wine and the pungent flavors of the cheese make music together. A classic example is Epoisses, a ripe cow's milk cheese made in Burgundy. The combination is stunning. Try to find red wine that isn't drenched in oak; the vanilla that the oak imparts can sometimes mask all the true flavors of the wine and cheese pairing.

+ For the more timid cheese taster, try a cheese that is firm, like a Manchego from Spain with Rioja or California Zinfandel. Or choose interesting semi-soft cheese, like Morbier from France, with young, light reds like Beaujolais or - more full bodied - grenache.

+ The classic Italian cheeses and wines are heavenly together. Sangiovese, the main grape in Chianti, is stellar with hard cheeses like Parmigiana Reggiano or Pecorino. Classic Northern Italian red wines like Dolcetto and Barbera are natural choices for cheese; they are meant for food. Taleggio is a semi-soft Italian cheese full of character, and Gruyerestyle cheeses like Hoch y Brig are slightly nutty, salty, and sweet at the same time.

+ Finally, don't forget about scrumptious blue cheeses. Blues vary greatly in texture, from hard and crumbly Stilton to gooey spreadable Gorgonzola dolce. All are incredible with hearty red wines from Bordeaux to Barolo and California cabernet. But also think about Port or Sauternes; a classic and unforgettable way to end a meal.

Next time you're planning a party, think wine, and think cheese. The classic combination has never been more

'right.' I

Leslie-Ann Sheppard is the owner of The Cellar, a creative wine and cheese shop on Surfside Road.