DISH
Q&A with Jimmy Bradley The Red Cat,The Harrison, The Mermaid Inn NewYork City Don't miss Chef Bradley at the White Elephant's "Chef & Shop" Series Nov. 17~19
with Maribeth Maloney
MM: You grew up in Narragansett, R.I. Any treasured food memories?
JB: Yeah, I have a lot of food memories with my father back in Narragansett. He shopped every day and was always asking, "What do you want today, Striped Bass or Curry Chicken?" That's odd for a kid. So yeah, I have lots of food memories with my father.
MM: You've got a hat-trick of successful restaurants in Manhattan; no easy feat. What has been the key to your success?
JB: Treat people as you like to be treated. Show you care. I think our restaurants are known for taking care of people. This goes for customers, as well as staff.
MM: If everyone lived by those sage nuggets, there'd be no need for organized religion.
MM: With The Red Cat in Chelsea, The Harrison in Tribeca and Mermaid Inn in the East Village, your presence is felt nearly all over the city. Which neighborhood is your favorite?
JB: Oh, I can't answer this! Well, I live in Chelsea so I spend most of my time there, but each neighborhood is unique in itself and each business is unique to the neighborhood.
MM: Would you ever venture uptown?
JB: Perhaps. Depending.
MM: On what?
JB: The location and the business deal. I am not so interested, but if all the stars were to line up, I would consider it.
MM:You've been described as the chef other chefs aspire to be, "cool, calm, poised, intelligent and confident." Does that make you blush?
JB: Yeah, sure. Shouldn't it? It makes you feel good. This is when all the hard work pays off.
MM: What's your favorite dish at each of your restaurants?
JB: Sautéed Zucchini at The Red Cat, Calf's Liver at The Harrison and Spaghetti with Salad on Top at The Mermaid Inn.
MM: How would you characterize your style of cooking? JB: Straightforward.
MM: Fusion-free. That's refreshing.
MM: What inspires you most, ingredients or technique?
JB: Ingredients and seasons first; technique second.
MM: The culinary equivalent of form following function.
MM: You've been involved in a couple books recounting chefs' disaster stories, "Don't Try This at Home" and "How I Learned to Cook." Care to share a nightmare?
JB: Sure, I have had many nightmares, but I would have to say the story ending in my termination in "Don't Try This at Home."
MM: The appropriate title for your chapter being "Don't Try Intentional Intoxication On-the-Job to Spite Your Boss!"
MM: What's the worst behavior you've ever witnessed from a diner?
JB: Stealing. I have seen everything, too - things from tabletops to artwork on the walls. Theft is the worst behavior.
MM: Yikes, I'd only expected some disagreeable knuckleheads who didn't like the way their steaks were cooked.
MM: What kitchen implement could you not live without?
JB: Frying pan.
MM: Perfect. It can do doubleduty on the domes of the thieves!
MM: If you could change anything about Manhattan, what would it be?
JB: Hmmm ... For the city to get off the course it's on now - Orlando via Las Vegas. (Hawaiian Tropic Restaurant??) The city needs to be gritty and soulful again.
MM: Right. Otherwise the "Dancing With the Stars" restaurant might not be far behind.
MM: Tell me about the most outrageous thing you've ever had to fire an employee for.
JB: None of your business.
MM: Eek. Guess that means it was an offense worse than relieving the walls of some artwork.
MM: What chef do you most admire?
JB: There's not one particular chef that I admire the most.
MM: Let's add diplomatic to your list of virtues.
MM: I'm confused about Rachael Ray's meteoric rise to fame - can you help me account for that?
JB: In America, the marketplace is supply and demand. Apparently she is in demand. Doesn't hurt to be friends with Oprah either.
MM: Now that's taking diplomacy too far! Ms. Ray is to TV food personalities what Hawaiian Tropic is to restaurants (mercifully minus the bikini).
MM: What do you eat when no one's looking?
JB: Celery and peanut butter.
MM: Do you think bars have become less fun since the anti-smoking movement?
JB: No. It started long before that when the Mayor wouldn't let us dance anymore!
MM: Ah, yes, the dreaded NYC cabaret laws. Surprising no one's tapped Kevin Bacon to spearhead a "Footloose" revolt.
MM: Given the choice, where would you have your last meal on earth?
JB: I have not really thought about it but whenever I leave L'Ami Louis in Paris, I think to myself, this would be a fine way to go.
MM: Is there any one food you just can't stomach?
JB: Yes, I don't like the texture of tripe.
MM: I don't even like the sound of the word "tripe."
MM: This is a loaded question, but do men make better cooks than women?
JB: Is your husband a better cook than you? I don't believe that gender influences the level of talent you have.
MM: Neither do I, but my husband does make a mean bag of microwave popcorn.
MM: What music do you like to cook to?
JB: Rock 'n' Roll.
MM: What's the worst song in the world?
JB: Anything by Celine Dion.
MM: Who's worse: lawyers or food critics?
JB: Having friends and peers of both ilk, the worst one is the one who doesn't pay the dinner check.
MM: Absolutely. Stealing the silverware would be less objectionable than an expected comp.
MM: Do you have any tattoos?
JB: No.
MM: What would it be if you got one?
JB: King Neptune.
MM: I say get it; maybe you'd acquire the mystical powers to will Celine to a watery grave.
MM: Finish this sentence: "The best thing about being Jimmy Bradley is..."
JB: ...I have lots of stories for the grandkids one day.
MM: You might want to wait on some of those stories till they reach the age of majority.
MM: You worked on Martha's Vineyard early in your career and you've spent time on Nantucket. What do you think is toughest about the restaurant business on a faraway island?
JB: There is an equally symbiotic relationship between four things: One: short season; Two: staffing; Three: ingredient procurement; And, Four: customers wearing Dockers shorts.
MM: Tough indeed. On the bright side, dancing's allowed. In fact, during the off-season on Nantucket, unrestrained brisk movement of any sort is mandated so as to avoid frostbite among those who just don't know when to put the Dockers away.
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QUICK SAUTÉ OF ZUCCHINI WITH TOASTED ALMONDS AND PECORINO
Adapted from "The Red Cat Cookbook"
(Clarkson Potter; November 2006)
Perhaps Chef Bradley can be coerced into doing a little dance while cooking this at the White Elephant -
+ 3 to 4 small zucchini
+ 1/4 pound Pecorino Romano
+ 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
+ 1/4 cup sliced almonds
+ Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
Slice zucchini lengthwise into 1/8 inch-thick slices, then into matchstick sized segments (about 5 cups); set aside. Thinly slice Pecorino into 12 triangular sheets using an old-fashioned cheese slicer or very sharp knife; set aside. Divide oil among 2 large, heavy-bottomed skillets over high heat. When oil is hot but not smoking, add half the almonds to each pan; cook, tossing until golden-brown, approximately 30 seconds. Add half the zucchini to each pan and toss to coat with oil, just a few seconds. Remove pans from heat, season with salt and pepper and return to the heat for 30 seconds, tossing. Divide zucchini and almonds among 4 warm salad plates, drizzle with olive oil and arrange Pecorino sheets in a pyramid over each serving. Get it to the table nice and hot! Serves 4.