e x p l o r e n a n t u c k e t
KAYAKING COSKATA POND
with Peter B. Brace
My sanctuary, my second home in the summer is Coskata Pond. Never heard of it?

I'm not surprised.

Up until I published my book, "Walking Nantucket" in April 2004 I had explored the island under the impression that Coskata Pond was as well known to islanders and visitors alike as Sesachacha, Hummock and Long ponds. Being from off island, I reasoned, if I could find this pond, surely those who grew up here and those who had lived here longer than I would instantly know where it was when I spoke of it.

But after the book came out I was amazed at the number of people who, after walking out there, remarked that they'd either never been there, never heard of the pond or both. At the very least know the geography of where you're living.

Coskata Pond is a tidal pond in the northeast corner of Nantucket Harbor in a section of the harbor known as Head of the Harbor. "Tidal" means that a portion of its volume drains and fills twice daily with the ebb and flow of the tides. What this means to me, and you, is a conveyor-belt-like current that whisks in and out of the pond at different times of the day every day. I'll explain why that's important to kayakers in a bit.

The cadence of the tides and the solitude of Coskata Pond draw all of Nantucket's shorebirds out to feed on its flats and marshes at low tide, and to nest. I regularly see massive colonies of fiddler crabs scurrying along the shores at low tide, many times numbering in the thousands. There is an active osprey nest on a tall pole in the Glades, a salt marsh on the north side of the pond. For those who like to fish from the kayaks, striped bass are at the head of this pond at high tide and at its mouth at low tide waiting for baitfish to be washed out.

I like to make an afternoon out of paddling out to Coskata Pond. The most relaxing way to get in the water and ease over the Head of the Harbor to the pond is to launch at Pocomo Point. To get there, drive out Polpis Road, take a left or right onto Wauwinet Road depending on which direction you're coming from and go about 1.5 miles down Wauwinet Road and take a left onto Pocomo Road. Now drive to the end of this road, which eventually turns to dirt and ends in a parking lot overlooking the harbor and Coatue.

Put your boat in the water on the right side of the point. When you're in the water and ready to go, point your bow toward the Coskata Woods, a bluff covered with trees to the northeast. Paddle with Coatue's beaches on your left and the houses lining the south shore of the Head of the Harbor on your right. Watch out for power and sailboats for the first half-mile or so after leaving Pocomo Point, as there is a relatively narrow channel that boats follow to get to and from this part of the harbor. The closer you get to Coskata Pond, the fewer boats you'll encounter.

As you approach Coskata's bluff and woods, an opening into the pond will slowly come into view. At low tide, a sand bar blocks the mouth of the pond, so paddle around it to your right to get in. At high tide, you should be able to paddle right over the sand bar and into the pond. If you can do it, try to time your trip so that you paddle into the pond an hour or so before high tide. The incoming water will gently carry you into and up to the end of the pond. When you're done exploring, and after the tide changes, you can paddle out of the pond on the outgoing tide. Remember, though, that the tide times for the Head of the Harbor and Coskata Pond are about one hour later than Nantucket Harbor.

Save time for a swim during your paddling adventure. Just remember that the pond will be warmer than the ocean.

If you're quiet enough with your paddle strokes as you enter the pond, you can usually drift really close to birds such as oystercatchers, whimbrels, Snowy and Great egrets and several varieties of gulls foraging for food, bathing and just hanging out. When you reach the pond's eastern shore, land on it and pull your kayak well beyond the high-tide mark. You can swim in the pond, but the icing on the cake for this paddle is a swim in the ocean, albeit a brisker soak than in the pond.

Leave your kayak and walk to the left down the shore and look for an opening that leads out to the inside beach trail to Great Point. Go left onto the trail, following it for about 100 feet before going right over the dunes onto the ocean side of the pond. During the summer there is a fair amount of beach traffic driving out to and from Great Point, so set up your towel closer to the water.

If you made this trip based on the tides, be mindful of the time because at low tide parts of Coskata Pond can become too shallow to paddle in. You may end up pulling your kayak over mud and sand if you aren't careful. To get back to Pocomo Point, paddle out of the pond and head roughly southwest back in the direction you came from until you can see the point, and then adjust your heading. Try to beach your boat on the east side of the point as there's less wind and waves on this side of the beach.

Editor's note: This column first appeared in The Independent during the summer of 2005. New "Explore Nantucket" columns will resume next week.

Peter B. Brace is the author of "Walking Nantucket," a comprehensive walker's guide to the island, available at island bookstores and gift shops.

The Nantucket Independent assumes no responsibility for any mishaps that may befall you while out pedaling, hiking and paddling. You venture out at your own risk and should be confident enough in your abilities to perform your sport on the routes in this series.

I KAYAKING 101 Kayakers should never leave shore without a U.S. Coast Guard-approved personal flotation device. Also, have a whistle attached to your PFD, and a water pump, strobe light and compass on board. Tell someone where you plan to paddle and when you plan to return. Check the tides and weather conditions before you launch. Do not paddle alone unless you are confident in your paddling skills and know how to perform a self-rescue. Give way to boats and stay out of heavily traveled channels, except when crossing when boats are not coming or going. Wear a hat and apply sunscreen before and during the trip. As with all outdoor activities, bring ample food and water.